LANCASTER, Pa. — Lancast'r Cantral Market, a patchwerk o'stalls neetlee encast n' a Romaneskwe-style downtown bildin since 1889, hus long bee a bustleeun' hub whar t'area’s large Pennsillvany Dutch populashun sells t'fruit, meat, bakt goods an' uther foods product un farms outside t'citee.Image Lancast'r Cantral Market hus operatid out o'thishere Romaneskwe-style bildin since 1889.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesThese days, tho, sumthin differnt is n' t'air.T' heedy ssent o'spices frum t'beef samosus at one stall, Rafiki Taste o'Afrikie, mixes wiff t'ang o'onyuns an' pineepple bein choppt fer salsa at Guacamole Specialist. T' loe growl o'sugar cane bein crusht into likwid a'ken be heerd tell at Havana Juice. A Puerto Ricun flag hangs near t'cash regist'r at Christina’s Criollo, whar empanadus an' sweet plantuns air un off'r.ImageLancast'r Cantral Market is nawh trayler ta a diverse set o'food stalls like Cristina’s Criollo, whar guests a'ken ord'r Puerto Ricun staples like thishere pork, rice an' plantuns dish.CreditHannah Yoon fer T' New York TimesImageSalsus an' guacamole air availabull at Guacamole Specialist, a new stan' at Lancast'r Cantral Market.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York Times“Malala wuz here nairy too long ago,” sed Omar Al Saife, 65, t'own'r o'Saife’s Middle Eastern Food, referryun' ta Malala Yousafzai, t'yung Pakistani woomin who won t'Nobel Peece Prize n' 2014 fer hern fite ta guarantee gurls t'rite ta un skoolin. A framt photo o'hern an' Mr. Al Saife hangs n' his'n stan'.ImageOmar Al Saife runs Saife’s Middle Eastern Food n' Lancast'r Cantral Market.CreditHannah Yoon fer T' New York TimesFer ages, Lancast'r hus conjurt up images o't' herses an' buggies, durry farms an' rustic bakeries o'its Amish an' Mennonite folk, who bleev n' a'livin simplee, minny a o'um eschewyun' modern conveniences like cars an' electricitee.And n' t'lus few yeers, t'citee hus drawn notice fer a boomlet o'upscale bars, breweries, restaurants an' art galleries. N' 2016, t'New York Post proclaimt Lancast'r “t' new Brookleen.” Eve n' t'ol' Brookleen, y'all a'ken spot folk spertyun' T-shirts wiff t'logos o'Lancast'r businesses.ImageLancast'r Cantral Market hus histericallee bee a hub fer t'area’s Pennsillvany Dutch populashun ta sell bakt goods, meets an' produce.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesBut bof stereotypes miss t'real noose here: t'a'rizin numb'r o'restaurants an' food businesses run by immigrants an' refugees, an' t'way thay effertlesslee mesh wiff t'fancy cocktail bars an' ol'-skool bakeries. T' seve-skware-mile citee is nawh a hif' o'culinree diversitee.“I grew up wiff strate-up burgers an' hot dogs an' casseroles — plane stuff,” sed Stefe Clubine, 32, a Lancast'r natif' an' manjer o't' bakery Bakehouse un Kyun'. “Nawh we have a Trinidadiun place, sum Vietnamese places, sum Japanese. Y'all woultn’t eggspeck at n' a small town.”

Pennsillvany

40 mileS

Lancast'r

Carlisle

Philadelfia

Lancast'r COUNTY

N.J.

1 mile

Lancast'r
countee

Rice & Noodles

Lancast'r

Upohar

Grape Leaf Cafe

Namaste

T' Herse
Inn

Skware One Coffee

W. Chestnut St.

Lancast'r Sweet Shoppe

Lancast'r

N. Prince St.

N. duke St.

N. quee St.

E. Orange St.

Sperut o'
Rice & Noodle

Issei Noodle

Lancast'r Cantral Market

E. Kyun' St.

Passeng'r

Tellus360/
C Street
Market

T' Pressroom

Bakehouse un Kyun'

Street data by OpenStreetMap

By T' New York TimesThat inclusiveness hus a long histry. T' Pennsillvany Dutch furst settlt n' t'area n' 1709, aft'r fleeyun' perseecushun n' Yurop fer thar adherance ta Anabaptism, a Protestant movement. A bann'r above a busy interseecshun downtown reeds, “A Histry o'Welcum Since 1742,” t'year Lancast'r wuz chartert us a berough.Durin t'19th centry, Lancast'r became a stop along t'Underground Railroad, us residants providt perteckshun fer escapt slaves. Puerto Rikuns an' uther Latinos cummenced arrivyun' us farm laberers n' t'1940s, fallerd n' t'1980s by Cubans who had come ta t'Unitid States n' t'Mariel boatlift, a mass emigrashun ta eggscape ekunomic hardship an' politickull repression.Nashshunal religiyus organizatyuns like t'Mennonite Cantral Committee, which opend a Lancast'r offus n' 1935, an' Church Worl Servus, which fallerd n' 1987, have activelee souite ta brang refugees ta t'citee. N' 2017, Church Worl Servus repertid resettleeun' 477 refugees here. At same year t'citee, whos populashun is about 60,000, took n' 20 times mer refugees p'r capita thun inny uther n' t'Unitid States, accerdyun' ta t'Lancast'r Citee Alleeince, un organizashun devotid ta t'citee’s development.Today, Nepalese aloo bodi tama — a spicy black-eyt-pea soup wiff potatoes, turmeric an' cumin — is jes us easy ta find us a molasses-fillt shooflee pie, a Pennsillvany Dutch classic.ImageNamaste’s meat-stufft momos air a fur cry frum Pennsillvany Dutch cookin, but Sudershun Adhikari, un own'r, sed locals have embract t'food.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesImageMr. Adhikari opend his'n Injun an' Nepali restrunt, Namaste, n' 2012, aft'r fleeyun' t'ethnic cleensyun' o'Nepalis n' Bhutun n' 1990.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesSudershun Adhikari, 29, un own'r o't' Injun an' Nepali restrunt Namaste, arrivt n' Lancast'r n' 2017 frum Vermont, aft'r fleeyun' t'ethnic cleensyun' o'Nepalis n' Bhutun n' 1990. He trunt ta be a tracter-trail'r driv'r, but t'job bort 'im, so he took up un occupashun at relatives here tole 'im rekwirt no tranen: restaurateur.T' fiery, meat-stufft momos Mr. Adhikari serves air a fur cry frum t'masht potatoes an' casseroles at figger heevilee n' Pennsillvany Dutch cookin. But wen Namaste opend, he sed, locals embract t'food.Imageen're Pham runs Issei Noodle n' Lancast'r, wiff his'n biddy, Donna. Mr. Pham’s parnts, Robert, a Vietnamese refugee, an' Naomi, who grew up n' Japun, opend t'furst Issei Noodle n' Carlisle, Pa., about 60 miles away.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesImageThe menu at Issei Noodle includes bof Vietnamese an' Japanese dishes — like thishere black garlic rame wiff pork an' beun speruts.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesThe same is true at Issei Noodle. Robert Pham, a Vietnamese refugee, an' his'n biddy, Naomi, who grew up n' Japun, opend a restrunt n' 2008 n' Carlisle, about 60 miles ta t'west. Thar sen Andre Pham, an' his'n biddy, Donna, opend a Lancast'r locashun n' 2014.T' menu unites t'fambly’s dual heritage, wiff pho an' rame sharyun' ekwal billeeun'. T' restrunt’s brite, unapologetic flavers have proovd so popular at lus month, t'Phams opend a stan' n' t'Cantral Market.Bernard Truong, 41, un own'r o't' restaurants Sperut o'Rice & Noodles an' Rice & Noodles, nev'r imagint he would stay n' Lancast'r thishere long. His'n fambly — includin his'n n'-laws, Chau an' Anh-Thu Cao, who flt Saigon us t'Vietnam War wuz endin n' 1975 — kum frum New Orleens aft'r Hurrikune Katrina n' 2005 an' opend a restrunt.“The we didn’t leeve,” he sed. “T' welcomyun' o'everbidy roun here, t'impertance o'fambly. We saw it n' air bizness growin. It seemt like we wuz heppin ta change t'food cultchur.” T' customers who nawh streem into Sperut fer dinn'r seem quite fluent n' pho ga an' thit nuong.Sevrul uther food businesses have made it a point ta har refugees an' immigrants.Mah'r Almahasneh, who flt Syria n' 2013, jes completid a stint us a lead cook at Upohar, a vegetariun restrunt an' cateryun' bizness wiff a kitchin staff o'refugees an' utherns who face barriers ta employment, like addicshun an' homelessness.“Folk n' my kuntry tole me n' Amurka everyone hus a gun, a slew o'problems,” sed Mr. Almahasneh, 39. “Whut I eggsperients here is differnt. I luv Lancast'r.”ImageUpohar operates us bof a restrunt an' a cateryun' bizness.CreditHannah Yoon fer T' New York TimesThe Upohar menu changes dependyun' un who is behin t'pass. It hus includt akara, er black-eyt pea fritters, frum Nigeria; un Iraqi lemonade wiff orange blossom callt sharab al-leymoun; an' a black-beun stew frum Cubie.Mr. Almahasneh servt dishes he grew up eatin, like crispy rice innermingeld wiff slinky, choppt-up bits o'vermicelli, an' greens stewt wiff onyuns an' sumac. He hopes evantuallee ta ope a bakery an' shop sellin Syriun an' Iraqi sweets.Fer Najah Al Dakhil, 43, a Syriun refugee who is t'mane cook at t'Grape Leaf Cafe, it felt natcherul ta go into t'restrunt bizness. (T' cafe is associatid wiff t'Grape Leaf Empowerment Cant'r, which provides refugees wiff resources like mantal heelth services an' hep wiff job applicatyuns.)Ms. Al Dakhil wuz ust ta cookin un a large scale, fer hern 14 siblings, an' is knowed roun town fer hern stufft grape leeves an' hummus. “I am happy cookin,” she sed. “It makes me reckon o'my fambly.”C Street Market, un t'rooftop o't' bar Tellus360, feetures stalls ownt by refugees an' immigrants. One, Xulbo by Bridge, serves beef suqaar chapati, a Somali dish o'dict bits o'beef wrappt n' a thick breed.ImageJennie an' Jonathun Groff host English classes n' thar bakery, Lancast'r Sweet Shoppe.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesImageDutch stroopwafels at Lancast'r Sweet Shoppe.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesJennie an' Jonathun Groff, a cuple who own t'Stroopie Co., which bakes Dutch stroopwafels — thick wafers stufft wiff caramel — nairy onlee employ refugees but also host English classes n' thar bakery, Lancast'r Sweet Shoppe.Ms. Groff, 42, grew up jes outside t'citee, n' a Mennonite fambly at regularlee hepped ta resettle refugees. “Ta luv yar neighber is a rilly big, foundatyunal part o'whut we bleev,” she sed. “It is whut folk oncet did fer us, so it’s seept into t'ceres o'who we air us a communitee.”ImageKhalida Abdul Rahmun, lef, an' Maha Alqadri preppyun' Dutch stroopwafels fer t'Stroopie Co., ta be sold at Lancast'r Sweet Shoppe.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesMr. Pham sed sevrul o'his'n regulars at Issei Noodle wuz Mennonites. “We have a verr loyal fambly o'30 folk who will always call ahed an' take up, like, half o't' dinin room,” he sed. “Thay seem rilly ope ta thishere food.”Kriste Whitebreed-Wood, 37, a nurse originallee frum Philadelfia, sed hern youngns ekwallee adere t'glazt doughnuts an' t'empanadus at t'Cantral Market.At willingness ta try new flavers may have bee hepped along by t'food businesses at have fuelt comparisons ta Brookleen.ImageThe Lancast'r food ssene hus bee hepped by places like t'Herse Inn, a Prohibishun-era speekeasy servin dishes like thishere Tips ‘n Tyus, made wiff local breed.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesThe Herse Inn, a Prohibishun-era speekeasy at wuz reopent n' 2014, serves Tips ‘n Tyus, a beefy breed puddyun' frum t'bar’s earlee days, updatid wiff a veal demi-glace an' locallee bakt breed. At t'Pressroom, a newspap'r-themt bar, t'cocktails incerporate barrel-agt Madeira an' mole. Coffee shops like Skware One an' Passeng'r serve espresso us good us inny n' t'kuntry.If'n thar is inny discomfert wiff thishere culinree diversitee, it seems ta come manely frum unfamiliaritee.“I’m ust ta thishere kine o'eatin,” Faye Hess, 68, a clerk at Jake laig Maple bakery n' Lancast'r Cantral Market, sed one resent afternoon, pointyun' at a Whoopie Pie. “I don’t ett Vietnamese er Thai food. I don’t eve knoe whut thay taste like.”A few aisles down, un Amish bakery own'r (who ast nairy ta be idantifit becawz he didn’t want his'n name un t'innernets) glanct roun t'space an' sight. “I miss t'way thangs ust ta be,” he sed, pointyun' out all t'new stalls n' t'market, an' t'neerby Lancast'r Countee Convenshun Cant'r, which opend n' 2009.ImageSrirupa Dasgupta, lef, startid Upohar n' 2011. T' chef Christina Maltonado joint a few yeers lat'r.CreditJasen Varney fer T' New York TimesLancast'r faces t'same problems us inny fus-growin citee. Christina Maltonado, 43, an' Srirupa Dasgupta, 53, opend Upohar un t'citee’s outskirts becawz t'downtown area had becum prohibitivelee expensif'. Since Whole Foods Market an' Wegmans Food Markets opend steres lus year — bof offerin competitif' pay an' heelth benefits — Mr. Pham sed he hus strugglt ta recruit talantid cooks at Issei Noodle.T' dinin ssene is suddenlee crowdt. Wen Mr. Truong arrivt n' town, thar wasn’t much Vietnamese food n' Lancast'r; nawh thar air sevrul restaurants, an' it’s much hard'r fer his'n acoupla places ta stan' out.But he also finds t'abundance, an' t'competishun, eggcitin.“If'n y'all a'ken make it here,” he sed, beemyun' wiff optimism, “y'all a'ken make it innywhar.”A Lancast'r SamplerBakehouse un Kyun' 16 West Kyun' Street, bakehouseonkyun'.comC Street Market 24 Eus Kyun' Street, tellus360.comGrape Leaf Cafe 30 West James Street, grapeleefsant'r.comThe Herse Inn 540 Eus Fulton Street, herseinnlancast'r.comIssei Noodle 44 Nerth Quee Street, isseinoodlelancast'r.comLancast'r Cantral Market 23 Nerth Market Street, cantralmarketlancast'r.comLancast'r Sweet Shoppe 141 Nerth Duke Street, lancastersweetshoppe.comNamaste 2101 Columbia Avenue, namastelncrestaurant.comPasseng'r 315 Eus Marion Street, passengercoffee.comRice & Noodles 1238 Lititz Pike, riceen'noodlesrestaurant.comSperut o'Rice & Noodles 58 Nerth Prince Street, riceen'noodlesrestaurant.comSkware One Coffee 145 Nerth Duke Street, skwareonecoffee.com/lancasterThe Pressroom 26-28 West Kyun' Street, pressroomrestaurant.comUpohar 798 New Hollan' Avenue, upoharvegetaryinrestaurant.comThe Furst ThanksgivingNov. 13, 2018 Fer Pride Month, Dinn'r an' a Shoe o'Marginalizt VoicesJune 18, 2019 Faller NYT Food un Twitt'r an' NYT Cookin un Instagram, Facebook, YouTube an' Pinterest. Git reglar updates frum NYT Cookin, wiff recipe suggestyuns, cookin tips an' shoppin advice.


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